Overview of the characteristics and use of the REX C100 temperature controller. Quick setup and connection of thermostats REX-C100, REX-C400, REX-C700, REX-C900 Dual digital PID temperature controller rex c100

02.11.2023

For this purpose, I dug up a couple of 100-watt 47-ohm braking resistors in my bins.

Sorry for the picture, not mine. The resistors are already screwed in place.
I built a simple structure from the same resistors and scraps of tin. Below, under the resistors, I laid a heat insulator, such as glass wool on aluminum foil. I coated the edges with high-temperature sealant that was lying around so that the glass wool would not fall off.

I connected the resistors in series, resulting in a power of around 500 watts. In one resistor I drilled a hole for a thermocouple from a “tseshka”, plugged the whole thing into a socket...
I didn’t overclock it to more than 350℃, that’s enough.
As a result, everything heats/works, but adjusting the temperature manually, “at a time when our spaceships are roaming the vastness of the Universe...” is somehow not very good.
I looked at the circuit on the thermocouple, just decided to assemble it... and then this store turned up, and in the store there was a pid controller. Naturally, assembling the thermostat to the side...
While the controller was driving, I screwed a sheet of tin to the bottom of the structure, there would be somewhere to attach it, and I tinted it so that it wouldn’t look too creepy...

Technical specifications, instructions

And now the REX-C100 itself.
To begin with, in Russian. I didn’t find it specifically for the REX-C100, only for the REX series. But as I understand it, they basically only differ in appearance, type and number of outputs. The settings are the same.
AND . Maybe it will be useful to someone.

Controller specifications:

Dimensions: 48 x 48 x 110 (mm) ± 0.2 mm
Accuracy: ±0.5% of full scale ±1 digit
resolution: 14 bit
control mode: discrete proportional integral-derivative (PID)
polling period: 0.5 s
indicator type: LED
integration time (I): 0 ~ 3600 sec
differentiation time (D): 0 ~ 3600 sec
supply voltage: 85-264 V
power consumption: less than 10W
PID output: relay 3 A 250 V
ALARM output: relay 3 A 250 V
Ambient temperature: 0~50°C, humidity 30~85%, no corrosive gases
factory settings: thermocouple type K; temperature range 0 - + 400 °C
reprogramming cycles: 100000
retention of settings after power failure: 10 years
weight: 170 g

Types of thermocouples used (selected by programming): (K, J, R, S, B, E, N, T, C, Pt, U, L)

type K (TXA) (chromel-alumel, sensitivity 41 µV/°C) 0 - +1370 °C
type J (TZhKn) (iron-constantan) 0 - +120 °C
type R (Pt13Ro-Ro, sensitivity 10 µV/°C) 0 - +1769 °C
type S (TPP, Pt10Ro-Pt, sensitivity 10 µV/°C) 0 - +1769 °C
type B (TPR, Pt30Ro-Pt6Ro, sensitivity 10 µV/°C) 0 - +1820 °C
type E (TCKn, chromel-constantan, sensitivity 68 µV/°C) 0 - +1000 °C
type N (TNN, nichrosil-nisil) 0 - +1300 °C
type T (copper-constantan) -199.9 - +400 °C
type C (ТВР, W5Re-W26Re) 0 - +2320 °C
type Pt 0 - +1390 °C
type U -199.9 - +600 °C
type L (THK, chromel-copel) 0 - +800 °C

Appearance, connections

Again, there was no packaging. Everything was dumped in a pile with rings, a tachometer and an opener...
It seems that this is why he has such an unpresentable appearance straight out of a puffy bag.
This is the entire kit, controller and instructions (in English).

The dimensions of the controller are quite miniature, five by 11 centimeters.

On the face of the face there are two lines of seven-segment LED indicators. The top “PV” line is red; in operating mode it shows the current temperature. In setup mode, menu items.
The bottom line “SV” is green, in operating mode it displays the set temperature that the PID controller strives for. In setup mode, displays the set temperature or set readings for menu items.
The “SET” button, when pressed once, is used to enter the temperature setting mode, when held for more than 2 seconds to go to the user submenu. When held together with the “left” button, to enter the “engineering” menu, where more fine-tuning of the controller is made.
Using the “left” button we move through the digits of the set values, and the “up” and “down” buttons respectively increase or decrease the set values.
On the left there is a row of signed LED indicators, which mainly duplicate the controller output and some used functions, such as PID auto-tuning.

On one side of the controller there is a factory label with markings, etc.

On the other side is a picture with the pinout of the inputs and outputs of the PID controller. The contacts for the screws look quite solid.

Disassembly

Opening is easy. We pry the latch from below and the entire structure is pulled out from the body with tension.
There are two boards inside. On one there is a power part, on the other there is a controller... on a microcontroller. The boards are connected to each other by a short cable. Soldering is normal, the flux has been washed off. If you do not take into account the rosin remaining when manually soldering the relays and cables. In general, everything is civilized.

Connection, setup

Connection and setup did not cause any difficulties. So I won’t talk too much about the menu items. The only thing I can say is that although the instructions look pretty scary, in reality it’s as simple as shelling pears. The Russian instructions have a menu navigation diagram, which greatly simplifies setup. Some items are missing in this controller; apparently they are in another modification.
I’ll hide the picture with the navigation under the spoiler, it’s big.

Menu navigation

By default, the settings are fine, if you need to change something, scroll through the menu, set the values...
I connected the thermocouple, by default the settings are set to type K. I connected the load, applied power... and everything worked.
When power is applied, the controller shows the type of selected input, then the maximum and minimum value of the operating temperature range, and finally the current and set temperatures.

In progress

When power is applied, the controller immediately starts working.
When I turned it on for the first time, I immediately set the PID to automatic settings, since I myself don’t know anything about this matter. Those who like to experiment and specialists can adjust these values manually.
Right off the bat, the controller flew up the set temperature by 20 degrees, then down by 15, and only then began to gradually approach the set point. In three cycles he stabilized the temperature +-2 degrees. Wait longer, keeps the temperature clear.
Let's see in action.
I screwed the controller, using zip ties, to my homemade “device.” Covered the back with a piece of plastic so as not to get caught in the phase when setting up. I haven't installed the toggle switches/fuses yet. Let's try this for now. In thoughts and drawings there is a thorough redesign of the device. Is it being implemented... :0)

Set the temperature to 300 degrees. Let's try to solder a scarf on this unit.

Well, the idea was a success. As soon as the parts on the board begin to move, one click of the board on the table and we have a pile of sealed radio components.
It's great to desolder, but let's try to reverse this process.
Let's take a self-made printed circuit board. Lubricate it liberally with our own super-duper miracle flux (50% glycerin, 50% rosin diluted in isopropyl alcohol).

Then use a soldering iron to make little bumps of solder on the board.
Naturally, we then wash off the flux.

We apply flux using a hand-made crusher.

We glue the parts onto the flux.

Set the temperature on the controller to 250 degrees and place the board. The temperature on the board surface will be 30-35 degrees lower. Measured with an IR thermometer.

When the parts move and are positioned, remove the board. We cool, wash off the flux and admire the fruits of our labors. :)
In principle, soldering is worth 3.5-4 points, but I don’t need more.

The board is experimental, that is, for experiments, so not all of it was soldered.
Photo of the process in real time on the first pass. I haven’t soldered boards on this “device” before.

conclusions

Pros:
The controller works and maintains the temperature. It has rich settings and a wide selection of thermocouples and thermistors used. You can screw it to the heel of the iron and solder on it.
Minuses:
I didn’t like the constant clicking of the relay in this modification. Knowing the Chinese relyushki, I think it won’t last long. If anyone buys a controller like this, look for one with an output to a solid-state relay, or even better, one that comes with it.
The most disgusting packaging, i.e. its absence at all.
Infernal shipping prices in this store.
Happy shopping everyone.

The product was provided for writing a review by the store. The review was published in accordance with clause 18 of the Site Rules.

I'm planning to buy +45 Add to favorites I liked the review +30 +65

PID controller REX-C100 - Single-channel PID controller with auto-tuning function, used to accurately set and maintain temperature within specified limits
The REX-C100 thermostat is designed to control the heating process and provides fast and accurate temperature control. The PID controller is widely used in smokehouses, heating, incubators, yogurt makers, reactors and other devices that require maintaining precise temperatures.

REX-C100 PID Controller Features:
supply voltage: 80 .. 260 V
power consumption:< 10 Вт
SSR output
ALARM output: 3A 250V
indicator type: LED
reading accuracy: ± 0.5% (depending on sensor accuracy)
Sensor polling period: 0.5 s
integration time (I): 0 .. 3600 sec
differentiation time (D): 0 .. 3600 sec
number of reprogramming cycles: 100000
retention of settings after power failure: 100 years
body material: plastic
body color: black
sensor cable length: 100 cm
sensor diameter: 4.5mm
internal cable insulation: fiberglass
operating temperature: 0 .. 50 °C
operating humidity: 30 .. 85%
factory settings: thermocouple type K; temperature range 0 - + 400 °C
dimensions: 48.5 x 48.5 x 111 mm
weight: 170 g

Temperature setting: Press the button SET and buttons UP or DOWN select the desired response temperature. Press the button again SET to complete the settings.

Enabling Alarm mode: SET(5 sec.), activates mode settings Alarm. The PID controller display will show Al1. By pressing a button SVv or SVn adjust the relay response temperature in alarm mode. Long press the button SET save and exit the mode. LED lights up Alm1.

Disabling auto-adjustment: Long press the button SET(5 sec.), activates the additional mode. settings. Press the SET button until the mode appears on the screen Aru. The default value in this mode is 0000 , this means that PID regulation is enabled. Button SVv(Arrow up) set the value to 0001 , this means that PID control is disabled. Long press the button SET save and exit this mode. The LED should turn on AT.

Alarm Settings: Simultaneously press and hold (5 sec.) the buttons SET And SVl(arrow to the left). Let's go to a new menu mode. When installing SL4=11, a SL7=00 the relay is activated when the set temperature is reached. Press the buttons again SET And SVl to save settings and exit the menu.

Supported types of thermops used
type K (TXA) (chromel-alumel, sensitivity 41 µV/°C) 0 .. +999°C

Video review of REX C100

First you need to determine the type of load control - SSR (DC output for controlling a solid-state relay) or RELAY (Simple contact closure, maximum current 3A, 250V). There is a sticker on one side of the thermostat that provides the necessary information.

We look at the OUTPUT item, in this case a thermostat with an SSR output. The RANGE line indicates the default settings for the temperature range and sensor type; they can be changed during the setup process. To connect you will need: a solid state relay, a temperature sensor, a load, and a signaling device (optional). On one side of the thermostat there is a sticker describing the contacts for connection:

1.2 – AC voltage source 220V;

3,4,5 – Load control (SSR contacts 4+ and 5. RELAY common 3, normally closed 3-5, normally open 3-4);

6,7 – Output to alarm device (3A, 250V max);

8,9,10 – Outputs for connecting a temperature sensor. The thermocouple (K,J...) is connected to contacts 9-, 10+. Resistance thermometer (Pt100, Cu50...) to contacts 8,9.

We connect the components according to the sticker - you should get something similar:

Now that the connection is complete, let's move on to configuration.

Setting up the REX-C100 thermostat:

The thermostat display shows:

PV – Current temperature value;

SV – Temperature set value

Below me and navigation buttons

Initial setup.

Setpoint Temperature (SV) Setting Mode

From the normal SV/PV display mode, press SET to make the SV display flicker, then press the key< для определения разряда, который будет установлен, затем нажмите клавишу (^) или (v) для установки нужной температуры, далее нажмите клавишу SET снова для возврата в нормальный режим.

Setting parameters

To set alarm parameters, auto-tuning, constants, etc. from normal display mode, press the SET key for three seconds, PV will show the parameter symbol, and SV will show its value, then press the SET key to set the parameter values according to the table:

Setting functions

With the device turned on, find the LOCK parameter in the parameter setting mode and set it to 1000, then press the SET key to confirm, then press both the SET and< одновременно на 3 сек, дисплей PV отобразит «Cod». При «Cod»=»0000», нажимайте клавишу SET для циклической прокрутки следующих параметров на дисплеях PV и SV:

Setting constants

If Cod=0001, press the SET key to cycle through the following parameters on PV and SV:

choopokapra 26-09-2015 20:46

Good day to everyone who has looked into this topic! who has dealt with such a thermostat “Double digital PID temperature controller REX-C100” How it works, the pros and cons of this device. Is it possible to set it to a temperature of 1300C? Who took it where?

YUZON 27-09-2015 11:56

I can’t say anything about this regulator, but theirs (similar in appearance)
approximately the same characteristics (I use "Delta" - it is very similar, China, it is also in Africa - China, mainly - only the labels change)
The temperature is adjusted by the type of thermocouple
functionality for simple operations is quite enough
come on, smoke here
http://www.chipmaker.ru/topic/126050/

Dinamic_kr 27-09-2015 16:02

Previously, rexes came with a set upper limit of 400 degrees, but this parameter can be changed in the settings. Recently they began to be released with a set upper limit of 1200. At least a couple of weeks ago they sent me one.

ynhuk 27-09-2015 16:25

Take a temodat, like the one you have; it works like a second thermocouple.

choopokapra 27-09-2015 17:52

quote: Originally posted by YUZON:

come on, smoke here
http://www.chipmaker.ru/topic/126050/

thank you - I read it, I’ve already ordered it, I’ll test it when it arrives

choopokapra 27-09-2015 17:53

quote: Originally posted by ynhuk:
Take a temodat, like the one you have; it works like a second thermocouple.

chyuck 27-09-2015 18:07

quote: Originally posted by choopokapra:

choopokapra

Then exit the menu.

I'll give you a ton of settings, I haven't figured out half of them myself. When heating, if the temperature goes beyond the set one, then do auto-tuning, first menu, AGU parameter. he will adjust the parameters P, I, d himself, but for me he adjusts the temperature normally.

choopokapra 27-09-2015 18:19

quote: Originally posted by chyuck:

There are 2 menus, the first is the set 4sec button, and the second is set and “left”. To exit these menus, you press the same button as you entered. Navigate through the menu using the set button.
Go to the first menu and don’t change anything (there are all sorts of alarms there, etc.), scroll through the set button until LCK is displayed at the end and set it to 1000 - this is like permission to enter the second menu. (for some reason these values are different in the descriptions) Then exit this menu as you entered.
Go to the second menu and make sure that SL 1 is 0000 (this is the type of thermocouple, for us it is type K) Next, go through the menu and set the parameters parameters SLL - 0 and SLH -1300 (this is the most important feature - these are the temperature limits, set which ones you need, the default is 400.
Then exit the menu.
Then close the thermocouple and controller input contacts for 5 seconds. should show the ambient temperature.
I'll give you a ton of settings, I haven't figured out half of them myself. When heating, if the temperature goes beyond the set one, then do auto-tuning, first menu, AGU parameter. he will adjust the parameters P, I, d himself, but for me he adjusts the temperature normally.

thank you, your information will be useful to me

Well, it’s time to look at this controller in more detail, as well as adapt and customize it to your needs!

Technical specifications, instructions

And now the REX-C100 itself.
To get started, instructions in Russian. I didn’t find it specifically for the REX-C100, only for the REX series. But as I understand it, they basically only differ in appearance, type and number of outputs. The settings are the same.